Low, mid, high, skin, drop, taper, burst — the six fade families decoded so you can ask for what you actually want.
Walking into a barbershop and saying just a fade is the single most expensive sentence in male grooming. There are six common fade families and they look completely different on the same head. Here is exactly what to ask for.
Where the fade starts: low, mid, or high
The fade height is the single most important variable. It is just where on your head the gradient begins.
- Low fade — gradient starts just above the ear and behind the temple. Reads conservative, professional. Good if you wear suits to work or want maximum versatility.
- Mid fade — starts right around the temple, halfway up the side. The most-requested fade height; flattering on almost every head shape.
- High fade — starts well above the temple, near the parietal ridge. Maximum contrast, very visible. Trend-forward and high-maintenance — the line moves down within 2 weeks as hair grows.
How short the shortest section goes: skin or guard
- Skin fade (a.k.a. zero fade or bald fade) — clippers go all the way to the scalp at the shortest section. Dramatic contrast against the top.
- Taper fade — the shortest section is a #1 or #0.5 guard, not skin. Reads softer than a skin fade and grows out more gracefully.
You can mix the height and the shortness. So 'mid skin fade' means it starts at temple height and goes to the scalp at the bottom. 'Low taper fade' means it starts above the ear and bottoms out at a #1 guard.
Special-shape fades
Drop fade
Standard fades follow a horizontal line around the head. A drop fade dips lower behind the ear, creating a curved arc. Looks especially sharp on guys with longer top hair (slicked back, comb over, curly tops).
Burst fade
Mostly seen on mohawk-shape cuts. The fade radiates out around the ear in a starburst rather than running side-to-side. Grows out into a really clean look.
Temple fade (a.k.a. blowout)
The fade is concentrated at the temple and sideburn only, with the rest of the head left longer. Fast to refresh, low-maintenance.
How often to refresh, by fade type
- Skin fade — 1 to 2 weeks. The gradient line is unforgiving once new hair starts growing.
- Mid or low taper fade — 2 to 3 weeks for crisp, 4 weeks for presentable.
- High fade — 1.5 to 2.5 weeks. Most aggressive maintenance schedule of the family.
- Drop fade — same as your base height (low/mid/high) plus the curved line wants 1 extra refresh per cycle to stay clean.
What to pair with the top
A great fade dies if the top does not match. The most common pairings:
- Textured crop — short, slightly forward-falling hair on top. Pairs with mid or low fade. Most versatile pairing for round and oval faces.
- Pompadour — longer top, blown back. Pairs with mid or high fade.
- Comb-over — defined side part, top combed across. Pairs with low or mid fade for the polished 'old money' look.
- Curly top — natural curls left long on top, sides faded. Pairs with mid skin or drop fade for max contrast.
- Crew cut — short and even on top. Pairs with low taper fade for the cleanest, most timeless look.
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Book Your Fade →FAQs
What's the difference between a fade and a taper?+
A taper is a small gradient around the ears and neckline only — the rest of the haircut stays consistent. A fade extends that gradient further up the side of the head and can take the shortest section all the way to skin. Every fade includes a taper; not every taper is a fade.
Is a skin fade okay for the office?+
It depends on your industry and head shape. A low skin fade reads sharp and professional in most modern offices. A mid or high skin fade is more visible and reads as 'fashion-forward' — fine for creative industries, sometimes too aggressive for traditional finance or law.
Can I get a fade with curly hair?+
Yes — curly fades are a Love Thy Barber specialty. The fade height is matched to how your curls coil, and the top is finished with curl-defining product so you walk out with shape, not just a clipper guard.